27 DEC 98

On the evening of the 15th, Gary and I took leave of our hotel in Kathmandu. They presented us each with a silk scarf around our necks and a small Bhuddist blessing. Then we took an overnight bus to the Indian border. The next morning we took a rickshaw across the border to catch our new bus. Our rickshaw driver did not stop at either Nepalese or Indian customs and we had to go back and get our passports stamped.

After an all day bus ride, we arrived in Baranas (the city formerly known as Varanasi). Baranas is one of the seven holiest Hindu cities. We spent a few days looking at temples and also went down to the Ganga (the river formerly known as Ganges). They have two areas on the river bank where they cremate people on open fires. Even though they do not burn children, snake bite victims or small pox victims, the demand is so high that burnings take place 24 hours a day. We took a boat ride on the river at sunrise to see all the faithful Hindu pilgrims bathing in the holy waters. We also saw a few Gangatic Dolphin swimming in the very dirty looking river. One evening, we went to a small concert and listened to some traditional Indian music.

After an overnight train journey across the Indian state of Uttar Pradesh, we arrived in another one Holy City. In Hardwar we watched some more pilgrims bath in the Ganga River and looked at a few more temples. Gary was also diagnosed with Ameobic Dysentary and started taking some pills.

On Gary's birthday, the 22nd of December, we parted company. He headed off for some tabla (Indian drum) lessons and I went in search of the desert. I went west through the state of Punjab. This is the main area for Seiks, the men with big turbans and beards. Then I went south to the state of Rajistan. Rajistan is a desert state with many camels and old palaces. I spent a few days in Bikaner looking at temples and forts.

Along the way, Gary and I learned that we were too late to see the Dali Lama in Baranas and too early for skiing in Auli.

Now I am in Jaisalmer. I leave on a four day camel safari through the desert tomorrow.

Many people find travel in India very difficult and I can see why. A simple walk down the street usually turns into a meet and greet session with the local population. Most shopkeepers yell "Hello" as you walk by and so do many children and pedestrians. Sometimes it is just a quick hello and a handshake and then I am on my way. Most people know enough English to ask my name and country. Quite a few can continue our conversation to the point of asking if I am married and what my opinion of Bill Clinton is. At some point most of them make their request for money, pens, or my business. I enjoy talking to people, but the fact that about 95% of conversations end with some sort of request from me does get a little bit old.

There are some great people and places in India, but you need a bit of a thick hide to be able to enjoy it fully. Also, the cities are very crowded and very polluted. I am looking forward to riding a camel through the desert for a few days and getting away out of the cities.

I am planning to see a few more cities in Rajistan and then head south to the state of Gujarat. I will work my way down the west coast of India until I run out of time and head back up to Nepal. I hope to return there by mid-February.