The second three weeks of my big bike ride in Northern Japan

Before I get started with the latest, I have to make an amendment to the last update. For those who were following along closely, you will realize that I left out one day. That day was August 7th. I rode. All day. North. It was hot. Actually, it was in the 90's and many families took advantage of the record heat to go camping on the beaches.

So, I last wrote from Asahikawa in Hokkaido. I spent so much time on the Internet that day that I was forced to spend a night in the park. I found a nice secluded spot and spent the night. I really like how camping in city parks is acceptable here in Japan.

On the 24th of August, I headed northeast. I wanted to visit the famous gorges of Sounkyo. After riding uphill for several hours I got to the tunnel that bypasses the gorges. The trail that borders the river was closed because of falling rocks. The fence closing the road was too big and the lock was too strong for me to get my bike over or through the gate. I rode through the long tunnel instead and never got a view of area's special attraction.

After another high mountain pass, I rolled into Rubeshibe and camped near a hot spring hotel. That area is famous for its wild foxes. Unfortunately, the only foxes I saw were chained to posts near the highway as a way of enticing passer-bys into the souvenir shops.

On the 25th, I rode through Kitami and Bihoro on the way to Shari. I had heard about a nice Rider House in Shari, but did not have any directions. I looked for some motorcyclists. The first two I met were staying there and led me back to the Rider House. This one was a lot more crowded than the one I visited on Rishiri Island. I did not have the place to myself. Despite all the cigarette smoke, it was a friendly place.

Early on the 26th, I rode to Utoro on the edge of Shiretoko National Park in the far northeast of Japan. I managed to get to the campsite, pack my bag and race to the bus stop in time for the 8:40 am bus. The bus dropped me off at the Iwaobetzu Hot Spring Hotel. The weather was great and I started hiking up the mountain. Long before I got to the top of Mt. Rausu, the wind got strong and the rain started. I camped in a slightly sheltered area and spent the night hoping that the wind would not break my tent. (My tent poles have already snapped three times on this trip).

The next day, I tried to continue along the ridge line, but the wind was too strong, so I went back the way I came. Going down the mountain, the rain drops were blasting me in the face and I had to hold a hand in front of my eyes to protect them. I finished where I started and had a nice soak in the outdoor hot pool by the river. After a short walk to another bus stop, I took a bus to Kamuiwakka Yu-no-taki - a hot spring waterfall. This place was great. It combined two of my favorite things - hiking up a river bed and hot water. The river was warm! It was fantastic. I went up the river for about twenty minutes. There were several nice pools below waterfalls to choose from. I found the best one and jumped in for a soak. The pH was only about 4, so I had to be careful not to let any water splash into my eyes. It burned my eyes like acid when it got in, but did not harm my skin at all.

The 28th of August was a nice day and I finally got to see the mountains I had just tried to climb. I spent the morning riding up to a high mountain pass. In the afternoon, I came down to the town of Rausu. Heading south along the Pacific Coast, I was only ten miles from some off shore islands that Russia currently claims. I spent that night in a nice park in the town of Shibetsu.

On the 29th, I turned inland and visited a crater lake called Mashu. It is a beautiful blue lake at the bottom of a 1000 year old volcanic crater. Next, I visited Io zan mountain. There were lots of steam vents with hissing sulfur. The mouth of the vents was an incredible bright yellow. I spent that night on the shore of Kussharo Lake.

The 30th was a rainy, dreary day and was actually the first time in a month of riding that I had to wear all of my rain gear. I spent several hours on a brutal climb up to Akan Lake Town. As I was rolling into town, a man stopped me and told me that the campground was closed because a typhoon was coming. He directed me to the local Rider House and I went there. Because of the typhoon, the place was packed. Also it only cost 500 Yen ($5) and that included dinner and breakfast. I had a nice time chatting with the other riders.

On the last day of August, the typhoon was still to strong for riding, so I sought out a place to read a book. I knew the campground was closed, but I went there in search of a shelter to sit under and read. I found the best shelter ever. Inside the shelter was a pool with hot water for soaking your feet. In the middle of the rectangular pool was a table to rest the book on. It was great. I spent almost two hours there before the campground guard came and told me that it was too dangerous to be in the campground while the typhoon was still blowing.

The first of September was a nice day, so I rode out to Lake Meakan and climbed a volcano. The climb up was nice and peaceful. Once I got above the tree line, things changed. The wind was incredible. I guess the typhoon was still making some wind, even if there were no clouds. I got to the top of the volcano and followed the trail along the ridge. On one side was a long, long drop down into the sulfur vents. The other side of the trail was a steep mountain side. The wind was coming from the crater side and trying to blow me down the mountain. I crab walked and crawled for about twenty minutes. Every time a particularly strong gust of wind came, I sat down with my back to the wind and covered my eyes with my hands. The wind was picking up marble sized rocks and bashing me in the back of the head with them.

After finishing that very windy hike, I went to another hot spring waterfall for a soak.

On the 2nd of September, I rode all day across the central southern plains of Hokkaido and camped next to a river.

On the 3rd of September, I went to the town of Yamabe. They have a free campground and I dropped my bike off there before hiking up to a mountain hut. The trail was covered in fallen trees from the typhoon and also very muddy. After a good few hours hiking I came to a stone cottage next to a river. It was a great place, and for my first time ever in Japan, I had a whole mountain hut to myself. I even found a nice shirt there, which I am wearing now.

Early the next morning, I continued up the mountain and pushed my way through lots of brush towards the top of Ashibetsu Mountain. I found some bear foot prints on the trail, so I was a little uncomfortable because I could rarely see more than a few yards in front of me. I was worried about surprising a bear, so just to be safe, I sang songs. My singing is guaranteed to scare away anything within hearing distance.

I spent a few hours sitting on the top of the mountain before heading down. I met a nice Canadian man up there and he told me about his job as a tree planter in Canada. It sounds like hard but rewarding work and I may give it a shot someday.

On the 5th of September, I headed south, crossed two easy mountain passes and came back to the Pacific Coast near Tomikawa. I found a closed campground on the beach and spent the night.
On the 6th of September, I got a very early start and rode about 80 miles to Muroran. I got there early enough for some laundry and a trip to the public bathhouse. That night I took a ferry to Aomori and got here early yesterday. On the ferry there were lots of TVs and I watched the news. Another typhoon was headed my way. After watching all of the destruction in southern Japan, I decided that maybe last night was not a camping night after all.

I found a capsule hotel and checked into my big coffin of a room. I really like the capsules and would not mind having one in the next place I live.

The typhoon passed by in the night, but this morning was still very windy. Too windy to ride a big bike with lots of gear hanging off. So, today is another enforced rest day. Luckily, this town has lots of free Internet.

I will get another capsule tonight and then start riding again tomorrow. I am now in the Tohuku section of Honshu Island, the main island of Japan. I have begun to realize that I do not have time to ride the length of the country and to do every hike. Soon I will have to start making some hard choices about what to skip.

I have now ridden over 1400 miles and my legs are still fine.

I mentioned before that the island of Hokkaido is popular with motorcycle tourers. Every time someone passed me on a motorcycle, they gave a nice big wave. This would happen several times an hour, usually. It was really nice to have that moment of contact as I peddled away furiously. It made me feel very accepted.

Lots of people also bring their souped up cars to Hokkaido because there are long straight roads with few cars and they can drive really fast. Hokkaido leads the nation in traffic fatalities.
I have booked my tickets back to the US and will arrive in Fort Lauderdale on the 26th of October.

Time to check out the local camping store and bike shop. I want to buy a new tire before it is absolutely necessary. Afterwards it might be a hassle, depending on where I am.